Iconic Magazine
Heating for the soul….Olly writes about his love of Fortified Wines for the latest edition of Iconic Luxury Hotels magazine.
Fortified wines are wine’s answer to blockbuster entertainment. They are powerful, memorable and perfect for delivering personal insulation against chillier days of drizzle and mizzle. While Christmas time is the traditional moment to crack open these world icons, I am a fan of extending their allure for as long as the sun refuses to put his hat on. And while there is quite a lot of etiquette surrounding these hallowed treasures, sometimes it pays to break a few rules in the name of hedonism.
The first rule to consider breaking is when to drink vintage port. There is no question that a fully mature vintage port, made from grapes in a single year, can be ethereal, transporting and a surprisingly elegant experience. However, cracking a bottle in its youth, while in some circles considered heresy, yields a totally different window on to the wild world of indulgence. As mesmeric as plucking a perfectly ripe plum, or the squishiest strawberry of high summer, youthful vintage port is all about primary fruit flavours and lavish scented allure with a firm texture and ravishing spice. For a lost afternoon beside a crackling fire, few wine pleasures can compare. Of course, if you have the patience and time to wait several decades, you are also in for a treat. But consider opening port sooner than you might and the frisson of naughtiness only enhances the exquisite extravagance.
The next rule which is widely considered to be true is that all fortified wines are heavy. This is not quite the case. Some of the most refreshing drinks in the world are served chilled with tapas in Spain and yet are classified as fortified wines –specifically, a crisp glass of cold Fino, or the driest of all styles, Manzanilla. Both of these sherries rev appetites to the max with their beautiful balance of zippiness with savoury power. Indeed, the discreet salty tang of Manzanilla served cold from the fridge is unparalleled to sip with fresh shellfish, sushi and sashimi – and this Christmas for something different, try it with your traditional smoked salmon. Divine!
With incredible talent making these historic wines, such as father and daughter Antonio and Silvia Flores at González Byass and world-renowned winemaker Peter Sisseck acquiring his own solera for maturing fine Fino under the name Corrales, the future of sherry looks brighter by the day. In fact, in my home, we are such devotees that from November onwards we celebrate ‘Sherry Wednesdays’, which involves the family gathering around the fire for a glass of sherry with nibbles every Wednesday afternoon.Sometimes we even remember to get up for dinner. Some of the sweeter styles such as Leonor, which I am recommending alongside this article, deliver a festive frisson combined with boosting some of our most memorable family conversations.
With similar thrills, the Portuguese island of Madeira is a dream for fortified wine lovers. Originally matured in ships as they passed back and forth through the warm tropics, these days the casks of liquid wonder are aged in warm attics called estufas. Gently oxidising the wine creates a wonderfully complex range of flavours based on classic Christmas spice. There are several styles of Madeira to choose from and here I am recommending my late grandfather’s favourite, Bual. With rich and moderately sweet caramel and raisin flavours, it also has a subtle zing on the finish which cleanses the palate ready for the next sip. Poured liberally with mince pies, Christmas cake or all manner of festive fare, it is nothing short of a total treat.
For reasons I have never fully understood, fortified wine occupies a strange place in the pantheon of wine. Either reserved for certain times of the year or shunned for being too powerful, it seems to me this rather misses the point. The joy of fortified wine is that a little goes a long way. A bottle is to be shared and savoured, in fact it could almost be described as the ultimate contemplation wine. The real joy for me is that they stop time. Thanks to their intensity and richness they simply cannot be ignored, and become a meditative delight to share, whether alone or opening a fresh conversation in to new arenas of exchange with a new friend or old pal. And while serving sherry in smaller glasses such as ‘copas’ encourages steady sipping, I warmly recommend using wine glasses to let the aromas flourish and the depth of flavours unfold in a flurry of scrumptious revelation. Seize the moment, grab a bottle of brilliant, fortified wine and whether you pair it with food, mood or just great company, the best thing of all to look forward to is the sense of personal insulation that they bring. Fortified wine is underfloor heating for the soul.
Olly’s Recommendations…
Specially Selected PX Sherry 17%, 37.5cl Outrageously good value for the sweetest of all sherries, this Pedro Ximénez is beyond brilliant. A half bottle of this is sumptuous with Christmas pudding, or with a box of dark chocolates is simply dreamy. For an instant dessert, pour a glug over a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
Hidalgo Pastrana Manzanilla Pasada 15% Fresh, discreetly salty and marvellously intense, stick this gem into the fridge to sip alongside your smoked salmon this Christmas. Aged for longer than most, it’s a manzanilla like no other with moreish might and a sublime kick of chamomile.
González Byass ‘Leonor’ Palo Cortado 12 Year Old Sherry 20% This is bang in the middle of all sherry styles, not overly sweet and by no means dry with a flavour profile somewhere between orange peel and toasted hazelnut. Try it chilled with a cheeseboard as a sort of liquid chutney, or with roast chicken for a delightfully off-beat pairing.
Madeira Blandy’s 15 Bual 19%, 50cl Madeira is one of my favourite wine destinations to visit with its enviable position between Europe and the tropics. The unique volcanic soil gives a thrilling zing to the finish of every glass of Madeira and this example is liquid Christmas. Serve it with mince pies or a huge hunk of your favourite blue cheese.
Quinta do Noval 2022 20% Lavish, concentrated and wreathed in violet splendour, this divine port is a world leader. With a tinge of cocoa framing, the vibrancy of this exceptional vintage port.
